One of the hottest spots on everyone’s ‘MUST KITE’ list is South Africa… for good reason! Steven Akkersdijk returns to Cape Town on a different sort of mission. Buckle up and enjoy the ride as Steven and José take us off the beaten path on their journey across South Africa!

One of the hottest spots on everyone’s ‘MUST KITE’ list is South Africa… and for good reason! Steven Akkersdijk returns to Cape Town for a trip, but things are slightly different this time! Buckle up and enjoy the ride as Steven and José take us off the beaten path on their journey across South Africa!

They say it's not about the destination; it's about the journey. Understandably, most journeys start with a destination in mind, and this one was no different. Every winter, I would escape the bitterly cold conditions in Europe's North Sea for the much more favourable summer season in South Africa. 

It's no secret that the world we live in now is a little different from what we once knew. Getting on a plane is like rolling a dice, and uncertainty hovers over every itinerary. When South Africa opened up its borders to Europeans in December, José and I made the trek to our usual Southern Hemisphere summer spot near Cape Town, where we were swiftly caught up in yet another strict lockdown. 

Suddenly, walking on the sand was a crime, and crossing the beach to go in the water could cost you a fine and a trip to the police station. These regulations lasted nearly two months in parts of the country, which happened to be the windiest parts! With similar lockdowns arising around Europe, waiting in place seemed to be the best choice. We tried not to spend too much time looking out the window and lamenting over the windy summer weather! Instead, we used the time to focus on work and kept ourselves fired up with legal activities like rock climbing and wing skating while we waited it out.

Once restrictions were lifted, we decided to extend our flights until the end of May to take full advantage of a quiet summer season in this stunning country. We collected a Toyota Hilux from Kenings Car Hire and concocted a plan to follow our itchy feet over to the surf paradise of Durban.

It's too easy to travel all the way to South Africa and get stuck in Cape Town - not even by lockdown, but by choice! Most kiters that find themselves sending it through the sky over Kite Beach find the possibility of missing the best session of their lives just too great to risk. But if you're ready to step out of the relative comfort of Cape Town, come along for the ride with us, and maybe you'll find some inspiration for your very own journey across the spectacular southernmost tip of Africa!

Garden Route / Cape St. Francis

The first part of our trip to Durban was very familiar. The N2 up towards Jeffreys Bay is also known as the Garden Route, and I'm pretty sure I've done this drive almost every season. Unfortunately, despite driving it so often, I still got snatched on a couple of speed traps; make sure to stick to the speed limits when driving there and enjoy the incredible views! Next, I would recommend stopping in Wilderness to do the train track hike towards Victoria Bay. You'll have to cross an old bridge where you can look straight down to the water underneath. It's a must-do activity, but not for the faint-hearted!

From there on, the coast is filled with beautiful spots, beaches, canyons and little towns. Even though we drove straight to St. Francis on this trip, I would strongly suggest that you stop at some if not all of the following locations: Wilderness, Buffelsbaai, Knysna, Plettenberg Bay and Nature's Valley.

After a full day of driving, we arrived in Cape St. Francis, where we met up with the Dace family. I had met them on the beach during one of my earlier trips, and I was immediately drawn to their stoke! Joel and Rory Dace are 16 and 13 years old, and both of them shred in the waves; not a big surprise when you've been brought up next to the ocean and come from a surfing family. They've only been kiteboarding for a year, but it was amazing to see their progress in the waves and on the flat water spot.

We had only planned to stay there for a week, but an amazing vibe, company and forecast kept us in St. Francis for almost three weeks! We stayed with the Dace family, and they showed us around the kite spots, which were all just around the corner from their house.

The "Kromrivier" river mouth provides nice flat water with easterly winds that are perfect for kite foiling on the lighter wind days and twin tip riding when the wind picks up. If you want some waves, you can kite upwind and out of the river mouth and onto the ocean, where you can find some easy rollers and a heavier shore break. Launching is easy next to the car park, but if you want to be next to the deep water straight away, you'll have to find a local with a boat.

I'm pretty sure most people have heard of J-Bay and the incredible waves that it delivers! Unfortunately, it's nearly impossible to kite Supertubes' main break as the wind is way too gusty from the houses around. Even if you make it out, you'll probably get eaten alive by the local crew, and I'm not talking about the sharks. 

Luckily for the kiteboarders, the coastline is long and offers a couple of good spots on the southwesterly wind. For example, you could go to Oyster Bay to get some side-on conditions, and in the bay, from Cape St. Francis, you'll find side or side off wind with waves breaking on the sandbars. We spent most of our sessions here as I needed practice on my backhand, and José was super happy to be on her front side. Just keep in mind that the coastline here catches all the swell, and it will max out quickly!

When you drive a bit further north, you have a little kite spot called "Paradise Beach". This spot offers a flat water session when the wind blows southwest. Keep in mind that it can get gusty if there is not enough west in the wind. If you don't mind driving, Sardinia Bay is probably your best bet. In the SW wind, it has two sides from the sandbar that you can kite on. On the left, you'll find side-offshore wind and on the other, side-onshore wind. Kiting here can be fun on either a surfboard or a twin tip.

Up north into the unknown / Transkei

After an incredible time in Cape St. Francis, it was time to continue our trip towards Durban. We stopped near East London when we passed by Areena Riverside resort. They have a fairly big property where Abby (a giraffe) is roaming around. It's mind-blowing seeing an animal of that size! There are a couple of real game lodges in the area there as well, and if you've never been on a game drive, it's well worth it!

We continued our drive on the N2 towards Mthatha, where we took a right towards Coffee Bay. A twisting road took us closer and closer to the ocean. Looking at Google Maps, we couldn't believe the time indicated it was giving us. There was only 30km left, and the remaining driving time was over an hour! We quickly realised that driving on the small roads that connect the villages in the Transkei can be very slow going. Not only did we end up with some classic Transkei traffic (cows, pigs and dogs roaming around freely and occasionally crossing our path), the road was filled with potholes that even gave our pickup a beating! The last 30km to our lodge were the slowest we've been driving during our entire trip, but the views were breathtaking!

The Transkei is unlike anything I've ever experienced before; dirt roads connecting to small villages with beautiful round and colourful rondavels (typical shack in the Transkei) made out of clay. The coastline is shaped by small cliffs where rocky and sandy bays provide world-class surf breaks. It was a crazy experience to come from the J-Bay area where you lie shoulder to shoulder to these empty lineups. It's also quite intimidating as this coastline is quite sharky, and the closest real hospital is about a 5-hour drive. Nevertheless, we had a beautiful first day where we parked on top of the hill and could walk down for a surf without a wetsuit.

The following days, a medium-sized swell hit the coast, and pretty much all of the spots we checked were completely maxed out, save for some reforms on the inside break for surf foiling. When going to the Transkei, it makes sense to line up your trip with the right forecast. If the swell is too big, you won't be able to surf the point breaks, and it's also possible to get hit with loads of rain.

We were quite fortunate with the wind, which usually picked up in the afternoon for a fun session in the Mdumbi river mouth. This spot provided a fun mix of waves and flat water with the added benefit of being able to park our car right at the spot.

Next to kiteboarding and surfing, this place is amazing for hiking and exploring the coastline. You'll find a herd of cattle roaming around on the beaches and the hills. Empty beaches with just a couple of fishermen make this a truly unique experience. If you're in for a spot that's a bit less off the grid but still very unique and beautiful, you could drive to Coffee Bay, where you can also find the "Hole in the Wall". We skipped this drive, though, as we weren't quite ready for the persistent panhandlers after such a peaceful experience in the Transkei. If you do go, be ready for kids to run after your car yelling "SWEEEEEETTTTSSS!" It's a timeless Coffee Bay tradition!

The last stretch towards Durban

After a week in the middle of nowhere and loads of rain in the forecast, we decided to drive towards Durban, which started with 2 hours of dirt roads. After that, the scenery slowly changed from small huts and flowing hills to big flats with massive roads full of cars. After spending about a month in less populated areas, it was a real shock to be back in the city. 

As it was already the end of April when we arrived in Durban, the wind season made way for the waves, and we could see that in the forecast. Some days had strong wind forecasted, but usually, this would fade as the days came closer. In the end, we only managed to get some kite foiling and loads of surfing in when we were there.

I was surprised to see the power of the waves there; in Cape Town, 2m swell at 9 seconds hardly has any power at all. In Durban, you'll find standing barrels that will push you straight onto the sand. Next to that, the current will sweep you down the beach, and the paddle out can take ages when you time it wrong. A welcome challenge, but one best saved for strong swimmers!

Reflecting on the trip

Looking back on our trip to South Africa, it puts a big smile on my face. The Transkei is a place I would love to come back to with a group of friends to maximise the empty lineups and score some epic conditions! There is so much to see in South Africa between the big cities, so if you ever find yourself lacking inspiration for a road trip, I can recommend this one!

 

By Steven Akkersdijk

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