In a world where Google Maps knows every nook and cranny, there's still space for discovery that echoes through Oman. In this exclusive feature, Sukie dives headfirst into adventure during the ‘Oman Downwinder’ and shares her experience with us. Read all about it right here in the latest issue of IKSURFMAG!

With its ancient allure and hidden treasures, Oman welcomed the Adventure seekers with open arms and steady winds. From the bustling coastlines to the serene desolation of Barr Al Hickman, they brought new challenges and breathtaking vistas each day. Guided by Marcelo's vision and bound by the thrill of the ride, they carved out a path seldom trodden, a path where the only constant was the rush of the wind and the camaraderie of fellow adventurers.

Join us as we unravel the tale of Oman—a land where the map ends and the spirit of exploration begins anew.

We try to find these mythical uncharted locations. Be the first to ‘discover’ a spot; be the ones with the knowledge and, let's be frank, bragging rights to these new dream places. Sadly, and in the same breath luckily for us, however, we are in 2024 when spots have been found, and Google Maps, Surfline, Windguru, and a whole host of other publications are documenting the live conditions to us in real-time with cams, pictures, and charts.

Now, I am not so naive as to say Oman is undiscovered—far, far from it. However, what we got to experience this week was a small snippet of the adventurous spirit, this voyage of discovery (That was never done before), which we all search for.

Oman, situated in the Middle East, is bordered by sea to the North and East, Yemen to the South and Saudi Arabia and UAE to the West. Oman is the oldest Arabian country with an interesting history (its capital was once situated in Zanzibar!); it has a hugely varied interior and one which is well worth visiting. On our trip, we stuck to the coast for kitesurfing, but the mountains provide a wealth of hiking, biking and climbing opportunities for unrivalled adventure. Likewise, other than kitesurfing, the diving here is phenomenal, with whale sharks, dolphins, and a host of whales being frequent visitors.

Politically, we tend to hear very little about Oman, and that is one of the beauties of this beautiful country. It keeps to itself and is a remarkably safe place to visit. Adhering to local customs is expected and encouraged as a primarily Muslim culture. Alcohol can be found in a few hotels, and women are advised to cover their arms and legs in public. The latter is a good idea for all to adhere to simply because the sun beats down from rise to set. The advice I was given before arrival was ‘there is one sun for each person in Oman'. Although I found this true, the heat was completely manageable in the breeze. However, ensuring I was adequately protected from the Sun by covering up and applying lotion was essential to ensure a burn-free trip for a fair-skinned kiter like myself.

This kite trip was one with a difference. The brainchild of Brazilian Marcelo, who came to Oman for work some 11 years ago and now (one Disney-style love story later) finds himself living here, operating Sea and Beach Lifestyle. And this is where we come in. Marcelo had an idea to bring together a group of kiters from all over the world to travel by kite up the coast of Oman. So he made it happen. We were a group from Oman, Brazil, Cape Verde, the UK, the Netherlands, Italy, France and Canada. We had different styles, personalities, abilities and backgrounds and were all brought together with the daunting prospect of travelling a 500 km coastline in only eight days. And did we do it? Yes, we did.

Starting roughly halfway down the coast of Oman in Duqm, the first day shot us out from the start line with a bold, gusty 37 knots on the wind station that morning. Our crew of 13 kitesurfers were accompanied by boats, a jet ski, a camera crew, a medical team and a land support crew who, as the journey progressed, picked up those who needed a rest and provided transport when conditions did not align. The gusts calmed, and the wind swung more cross shore than off as we continued on our way, with each rider choosing their weapon, a twin tip, or a sit or surfboard with kites of 7-10 metres.

Travelling via kite harbours its own set of challenges. Initially, of course, wind is a requirement. And a certain amount of wind, ideally consistent in speed and direction, so that that equipment can be chosen and stuck with. Secondly, we want some on-water support if things get a little spicy and we need instant help. Thirdly, there are some key access points where riders can be refuelled, boats launched and landed, and camps set up. And lastly, riding directly downwind for hours on end is hard. Physically and technically. When we start kiting, we long for that upwind ‘click’ to happen, and it feels like all we do is ride downwind. But to ride downwind with speed in a range of different wind and water conditions can be far more challenging than folks realise and add into the mix wind shadows and variable conditions along the way. You could have a recipe for disaster.

Luckily for us, Marcelo had thought of it all, and our crew experienced some out-of-this-world phenomenal scenery while kiting (have you ever seen sand fall from the desert directly into the sea whilst turtles swim by?), epic flat water lagoons, and fun waves to ride all while being safely covered by sea and land.

Over the course of eight days, our caravan of kiters and crew covered the distance we set out to. Not all was done by kite; at times, the trucks were loaded to take us to the next destination, over dusty desert roads past gazing camels or along the beach itself. Some nights, we would check into a hotel or, more excitingly, arrive at a waiting camp set up in advance, which would appear out of the sand as we would kite or drive toward it.

These camps were beautifully rustic, with heavy canvas tents sleeping 2- 4, a large communal area for food and relaxing and some showers and toilets.

We ate together each night until our bellies were full, and the food had disappeared to tales of the day's adventure. Our crew became one big unit, seamlessly knowing our roles. The days started to have their simple rhythm as we travelled across the desert and sea.

The Omani kitesurf scene is small and centred primarily around Masirah Island. We had the privilege of staying on Masirah for two days and having numerous kite sessions in warm, flat lagoons and over beautiful wavey reefs. Originally planned for one day only, we all loved it so much that we decided to stay longer. Marcelo and his team here adapted seamlessly to the conditions and desires of the group.

Made up of Omanis and a selection of expats, the strong wind has bred a community of fearless kitesurfers. There is a simple love of kitesurfing in Oman, and while the number of kitesurfers may be small, the stoke is big. Heading to a new spot, let alone a new country to kitesurf, can sometimes be intimidating, and certainly, when you hear stories of the sometimes violent localism at popular spots, Oman could not be further from this. The community here loves to kite; sharing this with new people is a passion they all bestow.

There is a reason many riders are starting to arrive in Oman for months on end, to Masirah in particular. This small Island just off the East Coast is littered with spots. But perhaps the crowning jewel, certainly for the spectators, is the small harbour north of the Island, just near the Ferry Port. Here, the wind is perfectly offshore behind a small road to the end of the port—the perfect arena. A couple of local kiters joined Hannah's favourite spot, her and Ruben, for what could only be described as a ‘how-to’ in big air kiteboarding, for which the swelling crowds were audibly appreciative.

Close to Masirah on the mainland is the reserve of Barr Al Hickman, which we passed through mid-week. Feeling more like finding your way through Mordor than desert, the team used GPS devices to ensure we did not stray from the path on our way in.

To the untrained eye, it all looks deceivingly similar; however, the ‘roads’ were visible to those who frequent the spit. The spit is simply that - a long lone sandbar jutting into the Arabian Sea with two prominent lagoons running parallel to the sea and perpendicular to the wind. There are a couple of established camps to stay at, or we had our trusty camp set up and move with us. Early mornings bring flocks of flamingos to bathe and preen in the warm waters. We were warned to walk into the water with feet shuffling to alert any nearby rays. However, stings are incredibly rare, so general sensible caution is all that is required.

The beauty of Barr Al Hickman, aside from the near-perfect kitesurfing conditions, is how remote it is. The only touch of human life is those who are visiting and camping at the same time as you. There is no cell reception, no gas stations, and no shops. Everything you need must be brought in with you, including all water, food and fuel. Water, of course, is a big requirement in the heat. You will sweat more than you realise, so drinking at least 4 litres per day is recommended, more if you can, and adding some electrolytes into the mix is a good idea, too.

Most folks will stay here for 3 or 4 days. The Muscat kiters come down for weekends at a time during the season to make the most of some kitesurfing and off-grid time with friends. Our day and a half here left us all wanting more, and personally, this was my favourite spot of the trip for the remoteness, scenery and conditions.

They brought us back to reality on our last day with a bump. Our closing ceremony was held inside an old fort, illuminated by the Arabian sun, and was the perfect setting for the final hours of our trip. Here, we reflected on what we had achieved before our team said our goodbyes and split. 

Marcelo and crew, along with Mitu and family, stayed for the following week's annual wave riding clinic at Asilah, one of Oman's top wave spots. The rest of us went back to our normal lives, many via Muscat to work or to fly back to our home countries.

Marcelo achieved the extraordinary by bringing together this eclectic mix of nationalities and styles. Our adventure together in this land was bonding and enriched with new experiences, scenes, and challenges. And is this not also the beauty of kitesurfing? The beauty of all sports? Of travel? And ultimately, the vehicle to community, connection, and freedom we all desire.

Big air, this explosion in high wind requirement has met its match with Oman. Typically, the winds blow 25-35 knots June-August, allowing for a short and intense season. The book’s end months of May & August provide good conditions without the consistency of those peak seasons. In fact, during our 10-day trip this July, we had only one day with wind only in the morning. Such is the consistency of wind in this part of Oman. However, the further north it becomes, the hotter it becomes, and the reliability drops. Muscat, specifically the northern Gulf of Muscat Sea, does have wind, albeit much lighter and considerably hotter, but you can still find sessions year-round. There are a few kite schools in Oman, primarily Masirah and Barr Al Hickman, and the scene is steadily growing nationally and among travellers. The wave spot of Asilah provides the perfect beginner/intermediate waves to hone your skills without dire consequences but with plenty of potential.

Oman offers immense scope for exploration. It might not be the place to come if you are after nightlife and parties. However, if you are looking for true adventure—and more specifically, for adventurous kitesurfing—you'd be hard pressed to find conditions more ideal.

To get the most out of a trip here, I'd recommend renting a 4x4 or, even better, a pair of 4x4s. Why? Because in Oman, you're likely going off-road, and without one, you're definitely getting stuck. Why a pair of 4x4s instead of one? Because this is absolutely a trip best done in a group. It is remote, beautifully off-grid, wild, and unashamedly freeing.

Contact Marcelo to take the hassle out of the organisation and for any information. Not only will he provide a wealth of information, but you will end up with a friend for life. His genuine stoke for kiting in Oman will undoubtedly rub off on you and only inspire your trip further.

Oman Downwinder is a project develop for Oman Tourism Development Company (OMRAN Group), in collaboration with Sea & Beach Lifestyle and Oman Sail and it is part of the efforts to uncover the untapped potential of Oman's picturesque coastline for adventure enthusiasts. This initiative marks a significant step toward diversifying Oman's tourism sector with a focus on adventure experiences.

 

By Sukie Robertson

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