In a time of continuing uncertainty, finding solitude out on the water seems like the ideal escape. In this article, Annabel van Westerop joins The Action Cruise for an exploratory sailing mission in Sardinia. Did she make the most of the south coast? Find out in this article!

Solitude. Today, it's the one thing that feels like freedom. No masks. No rules. Just a crew on a boat, escaping reality. In the places where no one rides, and perhaps, no one ever has, we found solitude.

You know how these things go... It always starts with a phone call. And I already know it is going to be a good one when I hear the strong, happy Italian accent on the other side, “Anna, let’s go on a trip!”

Federico is the owner of The Action Cruise, where he organises incredible kite trips, cruising around on a catamaran in search of the best kite spots around the Greek Islands, North Sardinia, and the Grenadines.

Earlier in the year, I had joined Federico on a crazy adventure to the Caribbean. The world had just started to implode upon itself, and borders were closing around us. We couldn't push the boundaries and stay longer, and chose the relative safety of heading home. A few months later, when the phone rang again and Federico said those magic words, I already knew my answer.

This trip was going to be different. The world had changed, and everything and everyone in it had to find ways to adapt to that change. For The Action Cruise, the season had ended early, with COVID still roaming around our planet. Fede, with his optimistic and creative spirit, decided to use the opportunity to explore a new location and a possible new itinerary for the following season. When traveling was permitted both in Sardinia and our countries of departure, planning was underway. On this exploratory mission, he invited only friends, sailing crew, kite instructors, and me! We were completely free to explore and follow the wind.

As I prepared myself for this trip, I pictured sailing around the Mediterranean Sea, exploring every inch of Sardinia's rugged shoreline. I’m from an island myself, and my home of Aruba is easy to sail around within a day. So when I asked Fede whether we were going to sail around the island, he couldn't help but laugh at the idea. Sardinia is a lot larger than I initially thought. Sailing up and down the short south coast itself would take us a week.

The north coast of the island is popular for kite cruises, with plenty of windy places to see and sail. The south coast is a lot less travelled, and the perfect place to go and explore. We couldn't wait to see what adventures were in store!

Unlike one of the planned cruises with a set itinerary and a list of stops, we had a blank slate in front of us. Our only goal was to go where the wind blows. Every evening, we would gather at dinner and begin our nightly routine. We would discuss what everyone felt like doing the next day, and which area had the most potential for a kite session. Once we had agreed on a plan, we would huddle over the map, looking at wind forecast and direction, and sailing time and conditions for the journey ahead.

There was a lot to consider as we planned our route, especially with so much distance to cover. Often, we would decide on a location and would have to start sailing in the middle of the night to get there in time to kite. We had basic needs to attend to, including groceries and fuel. Once every few days, we spent the night in a harbour to stock up. We took advantage of each of these opportunities to stretch our legs and enjoy a lovely evening out for dinner on dry land.

We found some truly magical places to kite along the way, exploring spots that had likely never seen a kite before. With so much unique terrain only accessible by boat, it was an endless series of discoveries. I'll never forget the flatwater session we had, tucking into a bay with alluringly blue water, and launching from the boat to explore a huge lagoon filled with flamingos. It was the ultimate feeling of freedom.

One evening, as I traced my finger along Sardinia's coastline on the map, I saw it. You know those moments in life that make your heart skip a beat and you feel that rush of excitement without even knowing why yet? When I discovered this spot, I felt it.

Pan di Zucchero… in other words, Sugarbread Island. From the sandy bottom of the ocean, this island rises over a hundred metres straight up into the sky. Its highest point is a steep cliff that no one could survive a jump from. The island's flat, sloped top covered in green makes the island resemble a gigantic slide or lounge chair.

A career highlight for any athlete is to do something absolutely unique, something that perhaps no one has ever done before. When I saw it, I knew that we had to immediately change course and sail to this breathtaking island. We would only know once we arrived what would be possible, but somehow, I felt it would be worth it.

We awoke as the sun rose to begin the cruise towards Sugarbread Island. From a distance, it stood out against the horizon. It was majestic. As we sailed closer, the scale of it became more and more intimidating. The island towered over us and the catamaran became smaller and smaller in comparison.

Opposite Sugarbread Island stands Sardinia’s high cliffs, showing the rugged side of the island. Carved out of the steep limestone cliffs, about halfway up, we could see Porto Flavia. In the early twentieth century, this beautiful sea harbour carved into the mountainside looks a lot like a temple. It was one of the exits of a complex network of mining tunnels. Ships could anchor under the port, and heavy minerals were lowered directly from the port onto the ships. With the heavy wind and waves around Pan di Zucchero creating hazardous ocean conditions, it must have been a difficult endeavour to land here.

It seemed like this trip, and the area itself was full of surprises. As we sailed around the island, we learned that there was another treasure hidden out of sight. Below sea level, in a small natural cave in the cliffs, a small statue is hidden, La Madonnina del Pan di Zucchero. If you are feeling up for an underwater adventure, you can snorkel and dive down to visit her.

When we arrived with the catamaran, the wind was blowing 10-12 knots, side on-shore. It would be a risky mission trying to ride in this unfamiliar spot in lighter wind, but we knew we had to go for it. With the help of the crew, I launched an 11m North Reach from the boat. The conditions would be most manageable with light wind gear, so I grabbed the foil, curious to see how close I could get to the island.

On the first attempt, I went all in, crossing in front of the island and gazing up at the massive rock above me. The wind does crazy things when there is a big object blocking it. I knew I was in a bit of trouble when my kite started flying towards me, before falling out of the sky only a few metres in front of me. At this point, I was around twenty metres from the island, and conducting a boat rescue with the catamaran takes a bit longer than normal. I was worried that the kite would drift toward the island and get tangled in the rocks. With the support of the team, we managed to escape the worst.

Not to be discouraged, I steeled myself for a second attempt, set on keeping my kite in the air. The wind was slowly dying and this started to look like it would be a massive challenge, but, before I knew it, I was cruising around Pan di Zucchero. Looking over my shoulder, I was in awe of its size and how tiny it made me and my kite feel.

Sailing around Sugarbread Island was the highlight that made the week of kiting and exploring feel well and truly complete. These adventures always start with a great group of people and the belief that the rest will come together, just as it’s supposed to. And it did.

Moments like this can bring some new perspective into your life if you're looking for it. At this moment, more than ever, I could appreciate nature and our place on this planet. Small moments can become really big moments that stay with you forever.

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Sardinian Dream
By Annabel Van Westerop

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