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At this exact moment, the world seems to be in a state of suspended animation. An underlying feeling of panic accompanies a unique calmness few have felt before.

We’re gaining a new perspective on our acts, our habits, and our way of life. It’s an experiment in boredom, confinement, and restriction: such an experience rubs our faces in what we miss most.

It’s the thing that gets us up at dawn to catch a handful of glassy waves, or drive for hours to score a few momentary gusts of wind. The reason we’re attracted to the water: it’s so much fun.

Our sports are not essential for survival, but our lives wouldn’t be the same without them. Soon, having fun will be one of our priorities again.

#staysafe

Tue 12th May, 2020 @ 3:00 am

Cabrinha

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Maxime Chabloz

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